Icebergs

May 26

We leave Vagnstadir at 0900 arriving at the glacial lagoon Jokulsarlon at 0930. The wind is the strongest I've ever experienced and whips grey sand into every unguarded crevice. A grey bridge hangs over the lagoon as massive icebergs pass slowly beneath it to the ocean.

We follow the coastline of diverse and far-ranging rocks for several kilometers. A small cove harbors over a dozen seals playfully bobbing in the icy water. The trek back to the bus is directly into the fierce wind and a brief stop in the gift store offers solace. At 1300 we eat lunch on the bus and decide to check out the nearby beach. A flock of Arctic terns struggles against the wind as we drive back onto the highway and brown skua on defiant wings fly amongst their prey.

The grey beach on the other side of the bridge offers little protection from the wind. We trace the shoreline and watch as icebergs meet the rough sea causing them to flip and spin like ice cubes in a glass. Several chunks of melted ice lie covered in black sand as the iceberg meets its final moments.

At 1500 we head back to the hostel for downtime and spicy vegetable pasta. Fog settles over the ocean then advances into the valley when night falls. We watch the quiet river and whimbrels treading stealthily along its banks as a grey drizzle ensues.