The sky is overcast above a valley of green sheep-speckled pastures. Behind our hostel the mighty Skogafoss waterfall crashes with the power of the Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull glaciers that feed its headwaters. At 0810 we leave this natural marvel for an equally awe-inspiring one tucked within an adjacent mountain. The Seljalandsfoss waterfall cascades with misty gracility before a hollowed cavern, which allows travelers a view from behind the curtain of water.
At 0930 we board the ferry headed for the Westman Islands, a geologically nascent archipelago off of Iceland's southern tip. By 1020 we land on the largest island, Heimaey, which fosters a town of 5,000 and the site of a nearly 40 year old volcanic eruption. Upon arrival we navigate through the industrial harbor to a towering sea cliff called Heimaklettur. On wooden ladders and a treacherous path we ascend to its grassy slopes for lunch amongst sure-footed sheep.
From the summit of Heimaklettur we see the quiet village in the shadow of the sleeping craters Eldfell and Helgafell, now only palimpsests of a violent fissure eruption. The former is our next destination lying within the island's southeast quadrant.
In the early afternoon we traverse the streets of Heimaey to the base of Eldfell and begin climbing its loose reddish slopes. Along its rim bright rocks of melting colors mark where magma-heated air escapes from hidden vents.
Our day concludes with a trip to the Eldheimar Museum, a commemoration for all that was lost in the 1973 eruption, and dinner at Gott, "Good," which lived up to its name.
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